Trimmed with Tartan, Part I

If you’ve read The Tale of Two Tartans then you’ll know that I once bought 19 metres of tartan silk. Two dresses were made from it and still, I had what could be called a reasonable amount left in my stash. Not enough to make another outfit on its own of course, unless teamed with a secondary fabric. Therefore the plan to make a slightly less in-your-face tartan-y 1880s bustle dress was hatched.

Since my last dress used black I decided to use white this time around and one day after work last month I paid a visit to Morelands to find some white taffeta. Still not sure what exactly I wanted my new dress to look like I turned to my books for inspiration as well as drawing a few different ideas down.

This bodice, in Frances Grimble’s book caught my eye

Early design sketches

I really liked the idea of using the tartan not only as a simulated vest but I was really liking the idea of having some at the back too. Of course, with no patterns to hand to make the back design I had to try and figure it out myself.

I traced the back pattern piece and then played around with which angle best served for creating a nice triangle of tartan at the back. Once I thought I was happy with that I cut the pattern along the line and retraced the pieces, adding the seam allowance. My first mockup was happily obliging and it seemed like it would work.

Tracing the pattern and deciding on where to cut the pattern piece

I cut the pieces out of broadcloth and chose to sew the two smaller pieces together so that I wouldn’t have to worry about pattern matching the tartan. I then flatlined the tartan and the taffeta, as well as cutting out and flatlining the side back and side pieces of the bodice as well.

Once these were finished, I sewed the seven parts together and put it on my mannequin to see how it looked. I was pleasantly surprised at how well the tartan piece turned out, coming down right to the perfectly positioned point. It was a complete and utter fluke actually.

Broadcloth pieces cut out, ready for flatlining

The back of the bodice completed

With that solved, I then had to decide how I wanted the front to look. I considered using the Truly Victorian French Vest Bodice pattern but the would have meant that the tartan wouldn’t reach where I wanted it to. So I turned to my Penguin Bodice frankenpattern and used the combination of the Two Tone Bodice and the French Bodice patterns.
When I made that up I was again pleasantly surprised to see that the tartan from the front and from the back was almost a complete match at the shoulder seams.

The front

Front and back matching quite well at the shoulder seam

So far, so good. Now I had the main part of the bodice constructed I was left with the great Deliberation of the Sleeves. Tartan or taffeta? I pinned the different fabric choices on either side and stood back to decide. Well, that was easier said than done. I couldn’t decide!

As I only had the bodice over the tartan underskirt, which I am planning to use as a part of this outfit I thought that I would have a better idea if I turned my attention to making the overskirt so that I would be able to better decide.

Stay tuned for Part 2!